MANOLI Patterns Workshop

(Bonus Tip from my Modern Marquise Skirt Sew-Along)

In garments made from heavy suiting, coating fabrics, or materials that are sensitive to heat and cannot be heavily pressed, darts are often reinforced with a strip of fabric cut on the bias.

Which fabric should you choose for the additional strip?

In my own practice, I prefer to use a fabric that is slightly lighter than the main fabric — something in between plain cotton and the main material. This way, we create a smoother transition in thickness.
You can use a cotton strip, a linen one, a strip cut from the main fabric, or from a soft wool of similar quality. If the main fabric has a nap, it is better to choose a finer wool. Of course, this depends on the situation.

If you decide to use a contrasting color for the strip, make sure your lining is opaque enough to cover the dart area completely, so the strip does not show through.

The strip itself should be cut on the bias. Its length should be 1–2 cm longer than the dart, and its width about 5 cm.

Technique: Step by Step

1. Position the strip

Place the strip underneath the dart stitching so that its center aligns with the dart seam.

2. Stitching and backstitch

The backstitch at the end of the dart can be done on the strip instead of the main fabric (but be careful not to cut through it later).

3. Clip the strip

Toward the dart point, clip the strip up to half of its width.

4. Spread the seam allowances

Spread the dart seam allowances open to both sides, along with the strip.

5. Finishing requirement

Skirts where darts are reinforced with an additional strip should always be finished with a lining.

Variations of the Strip Method

The additional strip can be used in different ways, depending on the fabric and design:

• Partial strip – sometimes only a short strip is needed, about 5–6 cm from the dart point.
• Full strip – the strip can also run along the entire length of the dart.
• Opposite pressing – the dart allowances may be pressed to one side, while the strip is pressed in the opposite direction.
• Split allowances – if the strip is made from a lighter fabric, the dart allowances may be cut open and pressed apart at the upper part of the dart. However, the dart point itself should remain uncut for about 0.5 cm, so that it tapers smoothly toward the end.
• Hand stitching with catch-stitch – this option is possible if the thickness of the main fabric allows it, or if the fabric cannot be pressed at all. In this case, the strip can be catch-stitched instead of pressed flat. Sometimes it is enough to secure only the upper part of the strip with catch-stitching.
  (!) If you choose this option, do not pull the thread tight — the stitch should not create any tension. It must remain very loose, serving only to guide the fabric in the desired direction.

Every situation is different, so you may need to experiment to find which variation works best for your fabric. Whenever possible, trim the layers in steps of about 0.5 cm to create a smoother transition in thickness.

Why use this method?

This method is especially useful when working with thick fabrics (such as coating or heavy suiting) and with delicate fabrics that do not tolerate heavy pressing. The additional strip prevents the dart from creating a bulky ridge or leaving a visible impression on the right side of the garment.

By reinforcing the dart with a bias strip, you:

• achieve a smoother transition in thickness,
• protect sensitive fabrics from heat damage,
• ensure that the dart lies flatter and is less noticeable from the outside,
• improve the durability of the dart seam over time.

This technique is a small couture detail, but it makes a significant difference in the final look and quality of your garment.

Conclusion

Balanced darts are a subtle but powerful couture detail. They help to reduce bulk, protect delicate fabrics, and create a smoother silhouette from the inside out. While this method requires a little extra time and care, the result is a garment that looks refined and feels comfortable to wear.

In the Modern Marquise Skirt Sew-Along, this technique appears as an optional step for those who work with heavier or heat-sensitive fabrics. If you are using lighter suiting or cotton, the darts can be sewn in the regular way — but for denser coatings or delicate materials, this bonus tip can make all the difference.