MANOLI Patterns Workshop

Open Workshop (Free Access Sewing Class)

✦ Buy the pattern here ✦
👉 Modern Marquise Skirt PDF Pattern on Etsy

Table of Contents

• Introduction
• Step 1. Cutting the Pieces
• Step 2. Marking the Pleats
• Step 3. Stabilizing and Fusing
• Step 4. Sewing the Darts
• Step 5. Folding the Front Pleats (the Most Important Step)
• Step 6. Sewing the Side Seams and Fitting
• Step 7. Preparing the Waistband
• Step 8. Time for Beauty (Bias-bound Back of Waistband)
• Step 9. Binding the Cut-On Facings on Front Pieces
• Step 10. Marking the Waistband
• Step 11. Stitching the Waistband & Folding the Final Pleat
• Step 12. Working with the Lining
• Step 13. Cutting and Preparing the Hem Facing
• Step 14. Joining the Lining, Hem Facing, and Cut-On Facings on the Front Pieces
• Step 15. Attaching the Hem Facing
• Step 16. Attaching the Lining to the Waistband
• Step 17. Finishing Touches

Step 1. Cutting the Pieces

Cut all pattern pieces as indicated on the pattern sheets, with the right side of the fabric facing up. Follow the grainline markings carefully when placing each piece.
All seam allowances are already included. Where seam allowances are not shown, cut the pieces without adding extra allowance — this is part of the design.

Step 2. Marking the Pleats

Transfer the pleat lines to your fabric. Use tailor’s tacks (thread tracing) so that the lines are visible on both the right and wrong sides of the fabric. These threads will stay with you almost until the very end of sewing, so this is an important step — take your time to do it carefully.

Tip: Choose a contrasting thread that is easy to see and simple to remove later.

Step 3. Stabilizing and Fusing

1. Apply fusible stay tape (1.5 cm wide, cut on the straight grain) along the hemline of the main skirt pieces.

2. Fuse interfacing to the cut-on facings, extending 1 cm beyond the fold line as shown in the photo. Then, reinforce the fold line by fusing an additional line of stay tape 2 mm away from the fold, on top of the interfacing.

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Step 4. Sewing the Darts

Stitch the darts on the back and front pieces in the usual way and press them towards the center.

• 👉 If you are working with a more havy or pile fabric (such as corduroy or velvet), you may use an alternative method with an additional balance strip of fabric. I have a separate tutorial on this technique — you can find it here (Sewing Balanced Darts (for thick & sensitive fabrics).

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Step 5. Folding the Front Pleats _{the most important step}

Take Pattern Piece 1 — Left Front with the pleat markings. Begin folding the pleats in the exact order shown on the pattern, following the numbered sequence and the direction of the arrows.

Each pleat should be stitched down for the length indicated:

• Pleat 1 — stitch 3.5 cm
• Pleat 2 — stitch 5 cm
• Pleat 3 — stitch 8 cm
• Pleat 4 — stitch 3.5 cm (Match notch 6 and beaste before stitching)
• Pleat 5 — leave unstitched at this stage (it will only be secured later when attaching the waistband).

⚠️ Attention:

Each pleat must be basted by hand, extending the basting stitches slightly beyond the line that will later be sewn on the machine. This ensures that the direction of the fold is fixed correctly and does not shift during stitching. Hand basting at this stage is essential.

If you have any questions, refer to the step-by-step video included here for a visual demonstration.

👉 Note on bulk at the pleat ends:

For standard light- to medium-weight wool suitings, no additional trimming is needed. After securing the pleats with a machine stitch, you may lightly trim the seam allowances at the waistline, cutting them in layers so they finish at slightly different lengths.

This is what the pleats from 1 to 4 look like when folded on fabric of standard weight (not thick fabric). At the top, you can see the waistband. At this stage it is not yet attached — the photo is just for reference. The waistband without seam allowance comes to meet the edges on the main piece with pleats, which were also drafted without seam allowance. All of them fold together and form one continuous line.

Seam allowances cut in steps

In heavier pile fabrics such as velvet or corduroy, extra reduction of bulk is required. Make several short machine stitches perpendicular to the pleats (as shown in the video), then cut the layers step by step so the thickness tapers smoothly into the fold.

⚠️ Important: Pleat 5 is left untouched at this stage — do not trim or stitch it down yet.

After 4 pleats are folded, pressed along the inner folds, and stitched down to the specified lengths, baste them together along the waistline by hand. As you baste, align all seam allowances and pleat edges into one smooth line, so that the waistline takes shape neatly. At this stage, the pleats should form a continuous waist edge. Later, secure this line permanently with a machine stitch, sewing at 0.8–0.9 cm from the edge.

(This step is demonstrated in the video above – Part 2.)

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Step 6. Sewing the Side Seams and Fitting

Stitch the side seams of the skirt. For the fitting, it is highly recommended to baste the waistband (or even use a temporary waistband) — without it, it is difficult to evaluate how the pleats will actually sit.

📌 Pay special attention to the side seam where the back piece meets the pleated front piece. Since the pleated panel enters this seam on the bias, the seam may shift slightly forward or backward at the hem depending on posture and body shape. With the waistband in place, check that thi s side seam runs strictly perpendicular to the floor.

This is why the pattern provides 2.5 cm seam allowances at the side seams — so you have room to adjust the line if necessary.

EXAMPLE FROM MY TESTER (SIZE 44)
On this photo you can see my tester wearing the size 44 toile (sample in muslin).

• On the left side seam, the line stands perfectly perpendicular to the floor.
• But on the right side seam, where the back meets the pleated front panel cut on the bias, the seam is pulled slightly backwards. This comes from the tester’s body shape and posture.

The green line in the picture shows the true perpendicular to the floor.

• The left side seam does not need adjustment.
• On the right side, the pleated front panel should be shifted by taking in 2–2.5 cm at the hem and redrawing a straight line up to the hip.

The back piece remains unchanged, because in the photo you can see extra fabric pooling on the back — this happens because the front panel is pulling backwards. Once the front panel is corrected, the back smooths out as well.

These adjustments are a natural feature of working with bias-cut pleats. There’s no single correction that fits everyone — depending on posture or the presence/absence of a tummy, the side seam can shift backwards or even forwards.

After refining the fit, trim the seam allowances down to 1.5–2 cm and finish the raw edges with an overlock (serger) or your preferred finishing method.

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Step 7. Preparing the Waistband

Cut the waistband from the main fabric. Note: seam allowances are not included on one side of the waistband. This is intentional and the waistband must be cut exactly this way.

The waistband corresponds to the waistline of the main skirt piece. However, it needs to be stretched and shaped along the top edge.

Process:

1. Cut the waistband.
2. Interface it with fusible, keeping the grainline the same as on the main waistband piece.
3. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and press. Begin shaping it into a concave curve, as shown in the video. Always use a pressing cloth and a water spray (if the fabric can be dampened).
   Note: In my video the waistband is made of corduroy, which does not allow much stretching along the lower edge, so I can only steam-shrink it slightly along the upper fold. If you are working with a standard suiting or similar fabric, you may also stretch it from the lower edge.
4. After shaping, open the waistband again. Along the fold line, apply a fusible stay tape, 1.5 cm wide. Position it about 0.1 cm away from the fold and fuse it in place with slight tension, so it stabilizes the concave shape and keeps the fold securely in position.
5. After stabilizing the waistband along the upper fold, measure the waistband length on pattern piece 4. Then measure the lower edge of the waistband you have just shaped. In most cases, the shaped waistband will have stretched more than the original pattern measurement. Mark the excess and trim it off, as shown in the video.

_{Note: In this process I am using a terry towel and an extra piece of napped fabric, because I am working with corduroy. With a standard fabric this step will be much easier. It only looks time-consuming — in reality, it’s fun!}

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Step 8. Time for Beauty

Take a contrasting bias tape, either ready-made or cut from lining fabric.

If using ready-made bias tape, press it open first.

(if cut from fabric) Cut it into bias strips at a 45° angle, approximately 2.5 cm wide.

Now we will finish the back side of the waistband with bias binding along the entire length, leaving the raw edge enclosed.

Process:

1. Place the bias strip right sides together with the waistband edge.
2. Baste, then stitch on the machine with a 0.4–0.5 cm seam allowance.
3. Remove the basting.
4. Press the bias strip away from the waistband, then fold it over by hand to the wrong side, enclosing the raw edge. This forms a neat piping edge.
5. Baste the folded bias in place.
6. Stitch in the ditch* along the waistband seam to secure the piping.
7. The piping is now finished. On the wrong side, the seam allowance is not trimmed — it remains inside.

*_{Stitch in the Ditch – a technique where the stitching line is sewn exactly in the seam line (the “ditch”), making the stitch nearly invisible from the right side while securing the seam allowance or folded edge on the wrong side.}

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Step 9. Binding the Cut-On Facings on the Front Skirt Pieces

Bind the cut-on facings on the front skirt pieces along their raw (outer) edge with bias binding.

Do the same process as with the waistband in the previous step: stitch the bias strip right sides together, press and fold it over to the wrong side, form the piping edge, and baste it in place.

⚠️ Important: Do not add the final machine stitch at this stage. Leave the facing basted only. The final stitching will be done later, when the lining is attached to the skirt.

The final machine stitch (stitch in the ditch) in this step is made only along 5–6 cm from the upper edge on the cut-on facing of pleated piece 1. The rest must remain basted until the lining is attached.

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Step 10. Marking the Waistband

Using the pattern as a guide, mark the waistband with all reference points (darts, side seams, etc.).

This step is important to ensure that all details match correctly when attaching the waistband to the skirt.

Note: On the waistband piece, the slanted line for pleat 5 is drawn on both sides of the pattern. However, to avoid confusion, transfer this line only to the right side of the waistband. Use a contrasting basting thread (for example, red) to mark it clearly. In the video, you can see how this marking is done.

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Step 11. Stitching the waistband and Folding the final pleat

Pin the waistband to the skirt along the waistline, matching the notches. Baste and stitch the waistband.

Fold the last pleat (the final pleat) and join it with the waistband, as shown in the diagram and in the video.

1. Cutting the pleated panel On the pleated panel, cut out the area marked in grey with “Cut,” leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along stitch line 1 (green line). The full cutting process is shown in detail in the video.
2. Joining waistband and skirt Stitch the waistband to the skirt piece along line 1 (green line).
3. Making a notch Clip into the end of the seam as indicated on the diagram and in the video. Press the waistband upwards.
4. Folding the 5th pleat Fold the fifth pleat. For precision, press along the inner fold of the pleat.
5. Aligning line 2 (red line) Match line 2 (red line) on the waistband with line 2 on the skirt piece and on the front panel.
6. Sewing from the wrong side Fold back the remaining pleats, locate line 2 on the wrong side, match it, and stitch from the wrong side with backstitching at both ends.
7. Checking alignment Turn the piece right side out and make sure that line 2 meets exactly at the pleat fold.
8. Folding the waistband Fold the waistband along its fold line. Place the inner side of the waistband into its natural position at the back.
9. Right side without seam allowance On the right side of the waistband there is no seam allowance. At this point the waistband meets the fabric fold (line 9) edge directly.
10. Adjusting if necessary If the waistband shifts slightly and extends beyond the fold, trim the excess as shown in the video.
11. Folding along line 9 Fold the fabric along line 9, right sides together, and stitch along stitch line 3.
12. Turning the corner Turn the corner right side out and shape it neatly.
13. Forming the knot of the waistband into the pleat Form the knot where the waistband meets the pleat, as shown in the video.
    👍 Carefully trim the thickness if necessary.

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Step 12. Working with the Lining

At this stage, cut 3 lining pieces (all pattern pieces are given face side up in the layout).

• Stitch the darts and press them toward the side seams.
• Form the pleat on the front lining piece.
• Stitch the side seams of the lining and serge them.
• Hem the lining: the total seam allowance for the hem is 3 cm. First press up 1 cm, then fold up another 2 cm, and topstitch in place. The finished hem width is 2 cm.
• Serge the edges of the lining pieces that will be attached to the facing.

Check the lining hem length — After hemming and topstitching, make sure the lining hem length matches either the pattern measurement or the hem of the main skirt. Since the hem is on the bias, it may stretch during stitching. If the lining hem ends up longer than the skirt hem, adjust it accordingly.

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Step 13. Cutting and Preparing the Hem Facing

• Cut the hem facing pieces. For fabric efficiency, you may cut the facing with side seams.
• Fuse interfacing to the facing, making sure the grainline of the interfacing matches the grainline of the fabric.
• Finish the upper edge of the facing with bias binding, the same way as described in Step 8.
• Stitch in the ditch to secure the binding.

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Step 14. Joining the Lining, Hem Facing, and Cut-on Facings on the Front Pieces

• Place the lining right side up on top of the hem facing, also right side up, overlapping the lining by 2 cm along the joining edge. Pin or baste in place.
• Mark a chalk line on the lining, 2 cm in from the joining edge, as shown in the photos and video. Check the lining hem length — After hemming and topstitching, make sure the lining hem length matches either the pattern measurement or the hem of the main skirt. Since the hem is on the bias, it may stretch during stitching. If the lining hem ends up longer than the skirt hem, adjust it accordingly.
• Place the cut-on facing of the front piece right side up onto the lining, aligning the bias binding on the cut-on facing with the chalk line. Pin or baste in place.

• On the front piece without pleats, stitch in the ditch along the cut-on facing, following the bias binding all the way down.
• On the front piece with pleats, align the facing at the top, placing it 2.5 cm below the upper edge. (Make sure the lining seam allowances at the waist match the skirt seam allowances in height.)
  At this stage, position the wrong side of the waistband naturally, without pulling or twisting, and then stitch in the ditch along the seam.

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Step 15. Attaching the Hem Facing

• Turn the skirt to the wrong side.
• Fold the cut-on facings along the pleat line.
• Place the hem facing and the skirt hem right sides together and baste (or pin).
• Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance.
• Turn out the corners at the cut-on facings neatly.
• Press

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Step 16. Attaching the Lining to the Waistband

• On the front piece without pleats, turn the waistband corner to the wrong side, place the layers right sides together, and stitch along the short edge with a 1 cm seam allowance. Turn it right side out to form a clean finished corner of the waistband.
• Baste the lining to the seam allowance along the waistline.
• Then baste the waistband carefully, making sure all seam allowances are pressed upward.
• Fold down the inner side of the waistband to cover the seam allowances and baste everything together.
• Give the final stitch in the ditch from the right side, along the seam between the waistband and the skirt, so that the inner side of the waistband is secured together with the lining on the wrong side.

✨ This stitch hides perfectly in the seam when sewn carefully, so it remains invisible on the right side while providing a strong and secure hold.

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Step 17. Finishing Touches

• Remove all basting stitches made during construction.
• Hem the skirt by hand with invisible stitches.
• Add a few securing hand stitches along the hem and front edges if needed.
• On the pleated front piece, the cut-on facing at the top remains unattached. Hand-stitch the bias binding to the wrong side of the waistband using invisible stitches.
  

• We do not recommend making a functional buttonhole on the waistband — the thickness of the layers makes it impractical. Instead, sew a decorative button (button on a shank) on top, and secure the waistband inside with two sew-on hooks.
• Make two thread loops (hand-worked chains) to connect the lining to the skirt at the side seams.
  

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✅Congratulations!

Your Modern Marquise Skirt is finished. I hope sewing it gave you not only a beautiful garment but also that special joy of creating something with your own hands. With every stitch, you’ve caught a little bit of that couture touch — and brought it into your everyday life.

Thank you for sewing along with me! Don’t forget to share your skirt on Instagram with #ModernMarquiseSkirt and tag me — I love seeing how each version comes to life in your hands.

📬 Credits & Contact Info

Designer: Katerina Manoli — Manoli Patterns

Website: [MANOLI Patterns Wokshop]

Instagram: [@katie.myfairytale]

Email: [ekaterinamanoli365@gmail.com]

This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. Mass production or distribution of the pattern is not permitted

✦ Buy the pattern here ✦
👉 Modern Marquise Skirt PDF Pattern on Etsy