This is a blouse with an underarm gusset and a one-piece construction.
The front, back, and sleeve are cut as a single piece.
There are no shoulder seams and no armhole seams.
The garment is designed as a clean, structured form with minimal bulk and precise internal finishing.
The gusset is a key construction element and defines both movement and durability in the underarm area.
Difficulty level
Confident intermediate to advanced.
This project requires accuracy and control rather than speed.
Several steps involve precise alignment, short stitch lengths, and working at pivot points.
Key techniques used
– interfacing-first method (applying interfacing before cutting)
– gusset construction with reinforced pivot points
– sewing into clipped corners
– working with silk organza for stabilization
– controlling seam lengths and tension
– clean internal seam finishing (bias binding or equivalent)
– precise topstitching at stress points
What to expect
The construction may feel unusual, especially at the gusset stage.
Some steps require working slowly and controlling the fabric manually (for example, stitching into pivot points or using the handwheel).
Small inaccuracies at early stages can affect the final result, so take time to check seam lengths and markings before sewing.
Construction Practice Piece (gusset)
Before working on the garment, sew the gusset using the provided practice piece. (STEP 8)
This step is essential to understand the construction and avoid mistakes on the final piece.